Race to Dolphin

Potts Harbor, Harpsell, Maine

Whenever sailboats meet, a race is on

When leaving Portland to the East by boat, the next town is Harpswell. We met our friends on a pair of Tayana 37s at Dolphin Marina for dinner. It was blowing so hard as our reservation time approached it was decided we couldn't take the dinghies to shore and instead call the launch for a ride. It was difficult just getting on the launch. After some of the best seafood I've had so far we were completely amazed to find the wind had died and the harbor was as smooth as glass. From a tempest to an eerie calm and we didn't even have desert.

Muster

Portland, Maine

I stayed near Cow Island to avoid the hustle, bustle and cost of Portland. It was only a few miles away, but it was so much quieter than the busy commercial harbor. The peace of Cow Island also gave me a chance to prepare Tanqueray for the Admiral's inspection.

The Admiral arrived Friday morning and was soon settled in. I'm happy to report I passed muster.

We spent the day walking all over Portland trying to imagine what it might be like to live there. Dinner in the old port was delicious, but even though we shared a bottle of red, it was not easy sleeping in Portland Harbor. There are boats coming and going at all times. They make noise and leave big wakes. We look forward to the quiet Maine we imagine awaits us.

Mamals

Cow Island, Casco Bay, Maine

I left Isle of Shoals at 7am dispite a forecast of light winds. The sea was as smooth as glass. As much as I prefer sailing to motoring, a windless day does have one advantage - it lets me spot any ripple caused by sea mamals.

For the first time in my life, I spotted a seal in the wild. Then another and another. As I passed the last rocky islet of Isles of Shoals I was treated to a beach full of sleeping seals. They were much bigger then I expeceted.

Just when the thrill of seeing seals was wearing off, I spotted my first whale of the day. As I progressed north, I saw several others. At one point, I whale surfaced about 25 feet off my starboard bow. It was the closest whale encounter I've ever had. Based on my google research I think there were Minske Whales.

After a morning of motoring, the wind filled in and I was able to sail the rest of the way to Casco Bay. I'm moored a few miles East of Portland and am thrilled to finally be in mid-coast Maine.

Cocktails on Kalyra

Maine and back

Isles of Shoals, ME/NH

A seagull and her chicks

Isle of Shoals is a pretty unique place. It consists of about 8 rocky islands several miles off the coast of New Hampshire out inthe Atlantic. The boarder between NH and Maine runs right through the middle. I spent Monday morning wondering Star Island, NH. There is a big, old, mostly empty hotel, lots of history and lots of sea gulls. The granic shoreline allows one to see Massachusets, NH and Maine from the same big rock. Later that day, I dinghyed over to Smuttynose Island (best island name ever) to see pretty much the same thing I saw from Star Island but from the state of Maine.

The highlight of the sail to Isle of Shoals was seeing a couple of whales along the way.

Kalyra through my galley port

Tall Ships

Rockport, MA

Tall Ships off Gloucester

Another perfect sail from Marblehead to Rockport, MA. The engine was on only for a few minutes when navigating out of the crowded Marblehead mooring field. I could see a few of the tall ships from the recent Boston Harbor tall ship event as they sailed East of Gloucester.

I spent Saturday morning walking around Rockport and liked what I saw. It seems to be the most livable costal town I've visited so far this trip. Later Saturday I was treated to a delicious barbecued halibut dinner aboard Kalyra. Here's one of the pictures we took of Tanqueray anchored in front of the setting sun.

Sunset in Rockport, MA

Kalyra and Tanqueray both plan to set sail for Isle of Shoals Sunday and then on to Portland Maine on Monday - weather permitting.

Kalyra and Tanqueray moored in Marblehead

Thanks to Trip and Nicole for the great pictures.

Fog

Marblehead, MA

After over four days of fog in Onset I was starting to get a little itchy to move on. Onset is a great town to stop in with a protected anchorage, marina, shuttle and shore facilities like laundry and groceries. To get to Cape Cod Bay from Onset, I needed to traverse the Cape Cod Canal. Because the current in the canal is so strong, the tides must be timed carefully. I decided to set the alarm for 4am. If the fog was too thick, I'd go back to sleep. If I had at least 1 mile visibility I'd weigh anchor try the canal.

I popped my head out the companionway at 4:15 and was surprised to see the fog had lifted and I could see for miles for the first time in days so I got everything ready and set out for the canal. I caught the last of the fair tide and passed only two ships on my way East. Just after exiting the canal I looked back and could see the fog had rolled in again. I was lucky to get though with excelent visibility but soon found myself in patchy fog out in Cape Cod Bay. Winds were favorable so I was making good time, but a passing squall left me soaking wet. For the first hour we were in and out of fog banks and showers. In the second hour the rain stopped but the fog thickened. I could see other boats on my radar. Some also showed on AIS. Often, they would pass so close I could hear their engines and even voices but I never saw them.

Once North of Salem, the fog lifted for good and the skies turned blue. I had 14 knots on the beam and averaged over 6 knots all the way to Marblehead. It was as nice a sail as I've ever had. Perhaps the fog and showers early on made the rest of the sail seem extra sweet.

Marblehead has over 2000 moorings. I believe it has the largest fleet in the Northeast (at least). I had reserved a mooring and was soon in town enjoying lobster mac and cheese.

Tanqueray in Marblehead

Close call

Onset, MA

I had originally planned to stop at Cutty Hunk after departing Block Island Thursday morning, but the sailing was perfect and a poor forecast for Friday resulted in a a long day - all the way to Onset.

A distant Kalyra and Noomi in foggy Onset harbor

Onset seems to be a perfect cruiser's stopping point - a protected anchorage and great shore facilities. After doing some laundry and sharing a pizza with Trip and Nicole, I received the frightening news that Tanqueray had dragged her anchor. Fortunately, another boat was able to get her on a mooring. She doesn't appear to be damaged so things could have been a lot worse.

We have discovered that moorings in Provincetown have increased significantly in price. This, combined with a forecast of winds from the South for a few days have resulted in a change of plans. I'm still not sure when and where my next destination will be.