Bermuda One - Two

Long Cove, Vinalhaven

After dropping of Jobert in Rockland, I had the pleasure of joining the second place finisher of this years Newport-Bermuda 1-2 race and his wife on their boat Bluebird for a drink. The race is done single handed down to Bermuda and double handed back to Newport. Gust has done the race many times and because he owns a sister ship of Tanqueray I was keanly interested in everything he had to say about sailing Justines.

The next morning Viviane joined me again for two weeks of crusing downeast Maine. We spent our first night in outer Long Cove, Vinalhaven.

The One Percent

North Haven, North Haven Island, Maine

Jobert was scheduled to begin his long drive home to Pennsylvania on Friday morning so we decided to spend our last night in North Haven. It would be only a short, two hour hop back to Rockland and his car the next morning.

North Haven is a favorite of wealthy families, many from the Boston area. Unlike the other islands we had visited that had only snack bar at best, here we dinned with the 1%.

Dinner in North Haven

Many thanks to Jobert for a really fun few days and the uptick in pictures for the blog.

Lobsta Pots

Swan's Island, Maine

Whenever one reads about sailing in Maine, there is always mention of the ubiquitous Lobster pots. Still, I wasn't prepared for their number and density. Many parts of Penobscot Bay look like they are in the fall-out zone of an explosion at a giant Skittles factory. Multicolor bouys are so thick one can almost step from island to island. The crew can never relax while cruising in Maine - especially when under power.

After a relaxing two days anchored in the Isle au Haut Thorofare, we set sail for another of Maine's outer islands. The breeze was moist and cold - hard to believe it was late July.

July sailing in Maine

If we liked Isle au Haut, we loved Swan's Island. It's larger in area and population with about 300 year round residents. While wandering around we stumbled on the dream home and it is for sale. While we were gawking at the home and its view, the next door neighbor came out and said hello.

View from Swan's Island homes

Deb showed us around her property and told us a lot about life on the island. Deb's home is even more amazing than the one for sale. New, high quality construction and a wharf with floating dock that had me salivating.

Deb's on left, for sale on right

Ditty

Isle au Haut, Maine

After one night at Warren State park on Southern Islesboro Island, I stopped back in Rockland to pick up my friend Jobert who was joining me for a few days of sailing Tanqueray around Penobscot Bay. After a relaxing day in Minister's Cove we headed south for remote Isle au Haut.

The island has a small fishing village on the north side but most of the Island is part of the Acadia National Park. While the more famous parts of the park on Mount Desert get 5 million visitors a year, the boat to Isle au Haut is limited to 50 hikers a day. Jobert and I hiked through the northern section of the park eating wild blueberries and fighting off mosquitoes.

Obviously named by the French, it's equally tricky to figure out how it should be pronounced in either language. After receiving several conflicting answers I have decided to use this little ditty as the authoritative answer:

Says the summer man when the fog hangs low, "There's a bridal wreath on Isle au Haut". But the fisherman says as he loads his boat, "It's thick-a-fog on Isle au Haut".

Tanqueray at anchor, Isle au Haut

fog

Turtle Head Cove, Islesboro, Maine

After walking past all the homes for sale in Belfast, I wanted to move on but the fog prevented my early departure. Late in the day, much later than usual, the fog cleared enough to get underway.

Once out on the bay I could see yet more thick fog banks to the south. I elected to go only as far south as the northern tip of Islesboro, where I anchored for a peaceful, calm evening as we were well protected from the south winds.

Avenue de la Grande Armée

Belfast, Maine

Belfast is odd in that it's a pretty large city for Penobscot Bay, yet it seems slow and quiet compared to others. There are few tourists and route 1 does not go directly through town.

I found the best Nautical book store I have ever visited. The second best is on Avenue de la Grande Armée in the center of Paris. I picked up a few used book and look forward to returning for more someday.

Bagaduce

Smith Cove

After seeing all there was to see in Castine, I motored up the Bagaduce River. The Bagaduce is deep and meanders pretty far inland. It would be a great place to keep a boat - safe from storms yet with easy access to open water.

Across from Castine is Smith Cove, a well known hurricane hole. It has a mud bottom which makes for secure holding. I anchored at the far end of the cove in total tranquility. I could see Castine in the distance, but out here Eagles and Ospreys fish undisturbed.